Every now and then, we get to be spoiled a little bit and get to have the guests experience. This time around it was my turn and I was very excited when Ale informed me that we had been invited by Classic Portfolio and I would be off to Zambia! It was over decade ago that I had been tiger fishing in the Lower Zambezi and I have been itching to get back ever since. Even more exciting, I was going to tick off a bucket list destination, South Luangwa.
The Journey
I caught a flight out of Hoedspruit and spent a night in Johannesburg before meeting up with the rest of the team. I was one of four agents, that would be led by our team leader Pam. Pam works for Classic Portfolio and having worked in Zambia for two years, her knowledge of the lodges and the area were second to none. Our flight from Johannesburg to Lusaka was nice and easy and it was good to see that the new International terminal building at Lusaka was up and running, a really beautiful building. We walked across to Terminal B, the domestic terminal and old memories came flashing back as this was the old original building for the airport. After a short time waiting, we boarded our flight to Mfuwe Airport, the access to South Luangwa.
Arriving heaven
After landing at Mfuwe Airport, we met Steve. Steve was to be our guide for the next four nights. He not only guides for the Bushcamp Company, but also stands in as a manager when need be. He was the perfect person to show us around and take us out on drives as he had been in the area for 20 years!
It was a 45 minute drive from the airport to the reserve entrance, but it was great seeing the community along the way there. There were lots of happy faces and smiles as we waved at all the children we drove past, everyone happy it was a Friday afternoon. After stopping at the access gate, we headed Kukaya, the first lodge we would stay at, but only for a stop over before we headed further south the following day.
Kukaya is a beautiful camp set along a drainage system. There are five double villas and a single villa. Each of the rooms has its own plunge pool and comes with its own private vehicle. After being checked in and shown around, we headed through to the boma area where we enjoyed a drink around the fire. It was curry night and after a long days travelling, we tucked into a great hearty meal. As it was dark on arrival, I woke up early the next day to take in the camp and get some work done so that I could pack the laptop away and take the next few days in. Sitting on the balcony, I was treated to some great birding and I watched as hippo, buffalo, giraffe, baboons, puku and impala all made their way to the waterhole in front of the lodge. We soon joined in for a great breakfast before heading on out for the days adventure.
Just as we left Kukaya, we found a female leopard resting on a termite mound, just the start of our magic drive. Herds of puku and impala were all over the banks of the Luangwa River, while the river was full of water birds and huge groups of hippos. The Sausage Tress and Wild Mangoes were all in flower and the red and yellow flowers littered the ground, attracting kudu, warthog and baboons, all feeding underneath them. It was absolute bliss! Our first stop was Kuyenda, an old walking camp along the Manzi River floodplain. Nestled under the canopy of some massive Jackalberry trees, this rustic camp had a beautiful feel to it. The camp itself is only open June – October and with its 6 rondavels is a perfect base for walking and game drives.
The landscape changed for a short period as we headed south, with rocky outcrops, Mopane and Baobab trees dominating for a period. As soon as we were back along the river though, the Winter Thorns dominated. This is when we started to see more and more elephants, coming in for the pods that they relish so much and the river itself to drink as the temperature was rising quickly. We then had a quick stop off at Chamilandu. This beautiful camp is found right and the bank of the Luangwa River and along with the river, has spectacular views of the N’Chindeni hills. It truly felt like you wouldn’t even need to go out on any activities here as the view was just incredible. Perfect for a small group of 6 as the 3 tree houses are spread and nicely.
After spending some more time along the river with a lot more elephants, that were now being joined by large numbers of buffalo, we reached our lunch destination, Chindeni. We had a walk around this beautiful camp before we were treated to a magical lunch, overlooking the Chindeni lagoon. This lagoon holds water all year round and even when the river is low, it stays full. It attracts large amounts of water birds and there are constant hippo and large crocodiles to be seen here. Lunch was do it yourself wraps, something I always mess up as I always overload them, but the chef was there to lend a helping hand. Even with my overloading, he expertly wrapped it up for me!
That is something I must comment on, as the food throughout our stay in South Luangwa was really exceptional. We later learnt that The Bushcamp company has its own farm close to the Mfuwe Airstrip. here they grow a large amount of fresh produce that supplies the lodges. Everything was always really good and fresh and along with this, another great way of supporting local communities with excess food and job creation.
Home for the next few days
We then finally arrived at our final destination for the day, Bilimungwe Bushcamp. After meeting the team that was going to be hosting us for the next few nights, we were each shown to our own rooms. I made the right choice and went with room 4. I wasn’t even in my room for 5 minutes before a large herd of elephants arrived to drink and mud wallow right in front of the room. I sat on the deck watching and was even sprayed full of mud by one of the large cows, a very special experience. At tea time, we were told that Bilimungwe was the “elephant camp” and it certainly stuck to its name as there were elephants in camp almost 24 hours a day. The herds would march through camp as if they owned the place and one morning we were even treated to them sleeping right up against the main area. We sat watching from not even 15 feet away as they enjoyed a mid morning siesta.
On our first afternoon drive, we stopped past a breeding colony of Carmine bee-eaters and watched as these beautiful birds erupted from their nest holes. We also learnt that the giraffe species in the area was a subspecies known as the Thornicroft’s or Luangwa giraffe, only to be found here and so a new species for me. The area itself was absolutely beautiful, with large fig trees, hidden water ways, herds and herds of animals, it was a great first drive topped with a sunset on the over the river.
The following morning we met for an early breakfast, served overlooking the Luangwa River. Right where we sat, there were tracks for two young male lions that had walked right through camp during the night. After our breakfast watching a group of hippos, we headed further upstream where we headed out on a bush walk. All of the camps under the company offer these and it was initially what the company was set up for, enjoying the bush from foot. The walk was great and we enjoyed the leg stretch along with some great birding.
When we got back to the vehicle, the plan was to head up along the Kapamba River and have a look at the remaining two lodges from the collection. On route to the first lodge, we had brief glimpse of a female leopard coming down one of the large Sausage trees. Unfortunately the undergrowth was so dense she immediately disappeared, but we all got to see her. Kapamba lodge again was nestled under some huge trees and with a pool at the main area, it was the perfect spot to sit and watch the herds of animals coming past. Of the 4 chalets, two are equipped with outside sleeping areas, where one can sleep out in the open, safe from any animals walking past. We then moved across to Zungulila which has a very similar view and feel to it, very homely. Both camps are open from April – January and only close for a short period.
Just when we thought we were on the way back to the lodge, we pulled into a clearing where the guys had set up a bush pizza lunch. We all got to build our own pizzas and as we sat enjoying them with an ice cold beer, we were treated to a herd of elephants drinking in the river. The next few days absolutely flew by and there were so many little surprises that the lodge threw in, but I certainly don’t want to spoil them all. One thing for sure was the Pel’s fishing owl that visited us every afternoon at high tea, perching in the open, giving us all a chance to get some great pictures. It would spend the night around camp and having the booming call around all night definitely made me sleep with a big smile on my face.
Saying goodbye
The morning of departure had arrived and we were all very upset that we had to leave Bilimungwe as it had now felt like our home. From the staff to the setting, it really had made an incredible impression on us all. As we drove back out of South Luangwa, we knew we had one more lodge to visit, but it was a very quiet drive which was unusual for us. We all sat reflecting on the magic that we had all just experienced.
We arrived at the last camp, Mfuwe Lodge, just to have a Quick Look around. many people already know this camp as it is the one where elephants will walk through the reception. They do so as there is large Wild Mango tree growing in the camp[ grounds and they want the fruits. The herd that does this has become quite relaxed and as long as everyone gives them space, they are happy to go on their way. On the way to the airport we stopped in the local villages to have a look at some of the community projects that The Bushcamp Company have set up or help support.
South Luangwa had turned out to be everything I had hoped it would be and more. I will definitely be back as there are some great people that I know will also appreciate this small piece of heaven. Although it was sad to leave, we still had a whole new area to explore and Lower Zambezi will be covered in the next blog.
