As we boarded our flight to Nairobi, in the final approach to this bucket list trip, we could not have imagined what was in store. The wheels had been in motion for this trip for over a year. The planning was easy and fun, having Wandering Thru at the helm. Upon our arrival on the tarmac at Nairobi, we were greeted and escorted through passport control by a member of the Asilia team. We easily swept through the airport and made it to our vehicle for the ride to our first stop, The House of Waine, in Karen. The hotel was beautiful and quite comfortable, and the staff were exceptional with their kindness and welcoming nature.
Nairobi
Our first full day was a glimpse into the brilliance that was to come. We started the morning at the Giraffe Centre, where we learned about the history and plight off the Rothschild Giraffe. We spent time feeding these spectacular creatures and enjoyed sharing space with their enormous yet quiet presence. We then moved on to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, for an absolute dream come true experience. The orphaned elephants from the Nairobi Nursery came along for a feeding and mud bath session. We spent an hour watching them frolic around while hearing about their incredible stories of survival from the keepers, who dedicate their lives to these babies throughout their journeys back to the wild. A few of the more curious babies came close enough for a little scratching session. This was something I have dreamed of since I started adopting Sheldrick orphans 15 years ago – what a full circle moment. Our day wrapped up with a delicious meal of traditional foods, enjoyed with our local guide, Rufus. He explained the foods, the customs and traditions. It was one of the most flavorful and delightful meals I have ever had.
Ol Pejeta
The next stop on our journey was Asilia’s Ol Pejeta Bush Camp, in the vast shadow of Mount Kenya. Our welcome was lively and joyful, with the entire staff dancing and drumming on pots and pans to the energizing tune of Jambo Bwana. We felt instantly at home and found all the comforts needed in our platform tents. This would be our base for the next three days, while we tracked lions, observed countless white and black rhinos and sipped our coffee and tea side by side with an ostrich and a dazzle of zebra. The birding was equally amazing, with the sights of the stunning Grey Crowned Crane, and beautiful Lilac-Breasted Roller, to the ever-present sounds of the tapping of the Blacksmith Lapwing and the infectious laughter of the Hadada Ibis. During some down time, I sat in my tent, watching a troop of Vervet Monkeys graze their way across the grass, finding and eating nuts on the ground, stopping for some grooming along the way. We were plunked down right in the heart of nature at Ol Pejeta.
A highlight of this part of the trip was going to see the last remaining Northern White Rhinos, mother Najin and her daughter, Fatu. It was extremely emotional, being in their presence, knowing that they are all that remains, due to the actions of humans. Sitting in their presence was indescribable, even as the sky opened up in a torrential downpour, almost as if the Heavens were sharing our emotions. It was heartening to know that, also due to the hard work of other humans, there is hope on the horizon. We will wait, anxiously, for the results of these efforts.
Kibale
After a sad farewell, we moved on to our time in Uganda. The open road awaited us as we took a long journey through the Ugandan countryside. We travelled through a variety of communities and farmlands, learning about the agriculture and heritage along the way. Our guide, Kiganda, was a wealth of knowledge and an exceptional guide and driver as he transported us to Crater Safari Lodge, overlooking the crater lake, Lake Nyinabulitwa. The sights and sounds were as beautiful as the accommodations, peaceful and serene.
The next morning, we set off in search of Chimpanzees in the Kibale National Park. We were lucky enough to encounter our first chimpanzees within 20 minutes. We followed them to the rest of the family, who were resting and interacting in the canopy. It was a surreal experience to be ensconced among these imposing yet playful creatures.
We continued the day with a nature walk, led by the spectacular Diana Kanweri, looking for birds and lesser known primate species like the Red-Tailed Monkey, the Black and White Colobus and the Red Colobus Monkey. After our walk, Diana took us on a tour of the local community, introducing us to the coffee making process, the banana beer and gin making process, and showing us a women’s initiative, supporting struggling women in the community as they navigate a variety of challenges. We learned how to weave and took part in some traditional dancing. It was a moving experience as we spent time with the women, learning their craft and witnessing the pride and joy they find in their hard work. It was a humbling yet heartwarming encounter.
Bwindi
The following morning, we headed out for the ultimate portion of the trip, gorilla trekking in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. After a beautiful drive, winding our way up into the area of the forest, we arrived at the Gorilla Safari Lodge, where we were once again, welcomed by an incredible staff, setting us at ease as we prepared for our epic trek.
In the morning, we were taken to the base camp for instructions and preparations. The air was filled with excitement and trepidation, as we had no real idea of what to expect. We found ourselves surrounded by a supportive and encouraging team, ready to help us achieve our goal. Our hike took us up the mountain on a winding but fruitful route, that ended with us walking into an unbelievable scene of a relaxed silverback, eating and lounging while a few youngsters played nearby. We were treated to an unforgettable display of gorilla dynamics, as they moved around us, grazing and napping while the little ones used the trees as a playground and personal elevators. I have spent years dreaming of encountering gorillas in the wild and this visit, made possible by Wandering Thru, did not disappoint. I will never forget the sights, sounds and, yes, even smells, from this most epic adventure. It was everything I imagined, and beyond.
While the trip was primarily about the primates we travelled so far to see, it also became about the beautiful people we met along the way. Through our travels we were able to find so much gratitude within and foster a new and broader understanding of a world we knew so little about.
Thank you to Ryan Johnston and to Wandering Thru for the absolute trip of a lifetime!
